It’s time to Suit Up!

Finding the perfect suit!

It has been said that every man should own at least one, if not more, good suit. It comes in handy whenever you need to dress up for a formal occasion. You may also have a career in which you need to wear a suit on a daily basis. What you need to look for is one that is comfortable and flatters your figure well.Too many people don't know how to wear a suit accurately. Listed below are some rules for you to follow when buying a new suit :)

 The first and foremost question you should ask before a purchase is:

1. What will be the main purpose of the suit?

•          If you’re looking for something that you’ll wear to the office often, then keep it dark and classic.
•         If you’re looking for a suit to wear to key special occasions, then black or navy is a safe bet.
•          How smart do you want to go for your suit?

As a rule, it’s better to have two great suits than five average ones. This also depends if you wear suits every day. Start with a rich midnight blue, a few shades darker than the average navy. This suit will transition beautifully from day to night, and can be worn with both black and dark-brown shoes.

If you already own a navy suit, you can go for the next most versatile suit color – charcoal. Then move on to your light colors like light brown or khaki. But sometimes these colors won’t compliment your skin tone, and so in that case go for light gray. This is what you can wear in the summertime to dress down a formal look.

A black suit seems like the logical first choice.

2. Deciding What You Want

Do you know if you want one button, two buttons, or three buttons? Do you want a peak lapel? Do you want side vents? What kind of fabric and color do you want?

Overwhelmed or confused? Don’t worry, I’ll guide you through the options.

a. Choose Your Fabric

Fabric plays an important role in your selection on suit. You are sure to come across one among a great deal of products marked Super 100. But it only means that this kind of mid-weight yarn is twisted more often than the usual 60-80 twist wool. You had better decide on fabric which can spring back after it's squeezed without wrinkling. A wool suit will give you the most for your money, so I rekon to start there. For some people wool can be comfortable, and for others it can just be itchy and irritating. If you find that wool makes you itchy that means you will not be comfortable, so go for another non-wool material such as linen or polyester.

Cotton suits should only be worn in the spring, summer, and fall. There are even more choices out there like linen suits which are best for summer days or flannel to keep you warm during harsh winter chills.

b. Choose The Number of Buttons

Three-button suits -The three-button suit was very popular in the 90′s because the two-button used to be the conservative, but the tables are turning again. If you’re going to get a three button suit, instead of choosing one of those high-cut types, look for one with a roll-over lapel—one in which you button the middle button, encouraging the soft lapel to roll over the top button. Taller men may prefer the three-button jacket, which will reach higher on the chest and could be more comfortable or flattering.

Two-button suits

The two-button suit is what most guys should wear. Every fashion label imaginable is designing two-button suits, except they’re making them more modern, so you’ll see a lot of these around. A man with a shorter torso will appreciate wearing a two-button jacket style. It lengthens your frame, and it has classic appeal.

One-button suit

The one-button suit exists, but it’s not for everyone. It’s something you should buy only if you’re in a creative job where the environment is less conservative. If you can pull it off, it’s a sleek look.

c. Choose Your Lapel Type

Avoid narrow and extra wide and keep it somewhere in the middle. Also consider whether you prefer a notched lapel – which is customary – or a more dramatic peaked version.

Classic notched Lapel

Classic and conservative, a notched lapel always looks sharp.

The Peak Lapel

The peak lapel is a bit more daring and stylish.

d. Do You Want Single or Double-Breasted?

The single breasted suit should be your choice for both work and play. The double-breasted version is a dashing, continental choice that’s chic, but not for men on the shorter or heavier side as it adds fabric to your midsection.

Single breasted 

double breasted 

e. Choose the Type of Jacket Vent

Double Vents (also known as side vents) - Double vents are more European and a bit more smooth. They make it easier for you to reach into your pockets without having to fold your jacket up. But they’re the most expensive to make, so they’re less available than the center vent.

Center Vent - Is modern yet more traditional. You can’t go wrong with a center vent.

No Vent - Ventless jackets are the cleanest and dressiest in appearance, but they aren’t very convenient. The wearer needs to bundle them up to access his pockets.

3. Checking The Fit

The shoulders of a jacket are crucial to a good fit. Check this area first to determine if the proper suit size has been chosen. (If you stand sideways against a wall and the shoulder pad touches the wall before your arm does, the suit is too big)

The jacket should not be too long, for example not halfway down your thigh.

For the right length: your jacket should be long enough to cover your buttocks. If you have very long legs, however, you may want to wear your jacket slightly longer than your buttocks to make your legs appear shorter and more balanced. If your legs are very short, you’ll want to wear your jacket just above the bottom of your buttocks in order to give the illusion of longer legs.

The sleeves should end at the hinge of your wrist, but leave some room to allow a bit of shirt cuff to show.

You should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining, but there shouldn’t be too much space between the button and your chest — no more than a fist’s worth.

Turn sides and look at the way the pants hang. Legs should fall straight and center evenly over each foot.

Pants should sit more at the hip almost like a pair of jeans, not at the navel

You shouldn’t have to wear a belt (you don’t really need one), and you shouldn’t need suspenders to keep your pants up, it should sit naturally on your waist and stay there.

*Beware of the sales guy who may talk you into buying a suit a size too big because he will say, “Well you want to be comfortable…” or “this suit will last you for the rest of your life, you’ll grow into it!” Uhhh… NO. If you can, take someone with you that you can trust (who’s blunt and honest) to tell you if something looks horrible.

Happy Shopping guys, if you need any expert advice please contact me at formula4fashion@gmail.co.za